Monthly Archives: April 2020

In 1971, I joined a group of elite Resident Officers in Training at HSBC Main Office in Central District, Hong Kong. HSBC (prior to 1991 was known as Hongkong and Shanghai Banking Corporation) was growing by leap and bound in the 1960’s, and rightfully then opened up its executive position to local staff. ROT (Resident Officer Trainees) were a privileged batch of local staff, on the way to take up executive positions of the Bank. We jumped many levels, and after two to three years of intensive training in a wide range of the bank disciplines, we were appointed Resident Officer, a grade way above the local branch managers. Potentially, Resident Officers could move up the corporate ladder to the Chief Executive Officer position.

HSBC was then very much a British Institution, run on the British system of governance. Having earlier worked in a British environment at the Ministry of Finance in Mauritius, I felt comfortable and adapted to the Bank system very easily.

The rank of a Resident Officer came with a generous salary and attractive perks.

Similar with other British Empire administrations around the World, Bank officers were served morning and afternoon tea in formal cup and saucer. At 10 am and 3 pm the bank office boy brought the tea to our desk, a privilege that was much envied by the lower rank personnel. The office boys, headed by a Head Boy who exclusively served the General Manager, were at our disposal to carry out our personal errands, whether it was delivering a parcel or buying a movie ticket.

We had lunch at the Officer’s mess on the 7^th floor of the Head Office bank building, where servers dressed in white uniforms attended to our needs, starting with soup of the day, bread and butter, a main course, dessert and tea or coffee. Every Thursday was “Curry Day”, a favourite of many of us. Expatriates usually started their career at HSBC in India before progressing to Hong Kong, and they had developed a craving for authentic Indian cuisine.

The greatest benefit I personally earned was the interest free and no down-payment housing loan available to Resident Officers. The zero down-payment privilege meant that I was able to buy an apartment many years earlier when the price of housing was at a lower level. To put it in perspective, when I left the Bank seven years after purchasing my apartment, the capital gain was enough to buy outright a standard house in Toronto.

The Bank owned several Bungalows on Lantao Island, an hour boat ride away from Central. We were entitled to enjoy the bungalow for a week every year. This perk included the use of a car. Also, we could use the Bank boat, equipped with a full crew, twice a year to cruise the magnificent Hong Kong harbour, and to go visit the hundreds of islands that make up Hong Kong. We also enjoyed a 50% discount on air ticket on Cathay Pacific Airways in which the Bank was a major shareholder. There was also a squash court in the Head Office building which we were entitled to use.

Ranks were a serious matter in the British scheme of things. Many would not know that Officers had their own washroom, separated from the rank and file. Management of certain ranks further had their own exclusive washrooms. There was even a “Chairman Lift”, for use by the Chairman exclusively, which stopped only at the Chairman’s flat on the top floor of the Head Office building.

Bachelor Junior Expatriates lived in a resort like residence nestled on the Peak, with swimming pool, dining room, recreation room, lounge, squash court and tennis court, with a grand view of Hong Kong and Kowloon and the spectacular Victoria Harbour. The “Peak” is a prestigious neighbourhood on top of the mountain looking down to the Central District of Hong Kong. The residence was accurately named “Cloudlands” as the place was often wrapped in clouds. Married and Senior Expatriates lived in houses or plush apartments, while the Chairman lived on a huge house on a hill up on the Peak, which we called Chairman House.

To westerners, the Far East was a mystic place, and young International Officers freshly recruited from London could hardly hold their breath when they first arrived in Hong Kong. Many were excited with the dynamism of the City and all the things that were told them but only now could be experienced. Wanchai, a favourite place for visiting American soldiers on recreation, was drenched with girlie bars and massage parlours where the movie “The World of Suzie Wong” was filmed. Young International Officers were not spared the temptation of frequenting Wanchai, now and then ended up in ugly brawls. When caught, they had to pack overnight and leave Hong Kong on the next available plane for a “hardship” posting in India or Bandar Seri Begawan.

Working at The Banque Nationale de Paris (BNP) in the Tourist District of Tsim Sha Tsui in Hong Kong from 1967 to 1970, I had the opportunity to meet with a large number of tourists from all over the world, American, British, Australian, Vietnamese and last but not least French speaking nationals.

They came in the Bank mainly to exchange their home currency into Hong Kong dollars. Others came to park some of their money in a stable and free of exchange control Hong Kong, the Vietnam War (1955 to 1975) was a destabilizing factor to many of the countries in Asia.

Moroccan Encounter: In the 1960’s, Hong Kong was a manufacturing hub. Well before “Made in China” goods filled the shelves of western establishments starting around 1990’s, “Made in Hong Kong” goods were king. Businessmen from all over the world flocked to Hong Kong to place orders for goods ranging from toys to household appliances, from footwear to wigs to garments. Import and Export Firms sprang all over Hong Kong, serving as middleman between overseas buyers and local manufacturers. Because I speak French, I was often asked to help interpret for our Bank customers whenever their French speaking buyers were in town. Here I got acquainted with a Moroccan businessman, a Mr. Bennis. Strangely, he spoke French but could not write. Often, I wrote letters for him in French as he dictated the contents. It never crossed my mind that I should charge for my service, I just enjoyed doing it. On one occasion though, as he was having some custom shirts made, he also had a couple made for me, with my initial “gy” embroidered on the cuffs in blue threads. It made me feel stylish and awesome wearing these shirts. On another occasion, he said to me “Would you like to go and work for me in Casablanca”. I was taken aback with this offer but deep inside I felt proud of my usefullness and abilities. The prospect of living in the mysterious and exotic Moroccan city of Casablanca really excited me. The movie “Casablanca” featuring Humphrey Bogart must have impressed me deeply. I was fascinated with Morocco’s unique architecture, music, cuisine, belly dancers. Yet, it was queer that hardly had I settled in Hong Kong that I was ready to embark on another adventure. “Yes, I like to go to Morocco” I told him with gleaming eyes. I provided him with the necessary information for immigration purposes. Somehow, the plan never materialized, in hindsight I wondered if he was just pulling wool over my eyes or it was just my destiny.

African Encounter: One sunny afternoon a High-Ranking Minister from Ivory Coast, came to the branch to look for our Manager, a Mr. Tomatis, who was prior posted in Abidjan, hence the acquaintance. Among other things, The Minister and his wife wanted to buy some Chinese style furniture. Hong Kong was then known as the Pearl of the Orient and an Asian shopping paradise. You could find anything here, camera, toys, electronics, furniture, ivory carvings, custom made suit. I was asked to be his guide. The Bank car was at our disposal and the driver, a Cantonese speaking smart fellow, drove us to several furniture shops. As the distinguished guests were browsing through the shop, the driver discreetly hinted that we could ask the Shop owner for some commission or “kick back” as commonly known. It was fashionable for shop owners to pay commission to anybody bringing in customers to their shops, I was aware of but never expected to experience it. The driver had a quick chat with the owner, and when our adventure was over, we had each earned two thousand Hong Kong dollars from the purchase of forty thousand dollars worth of Chinese traditional furniture. To put it in perspective, two thousand dollars was equivalent to six months of my salary, and forty thousand dollars could buy a small apartment. What an Afternoon!

French Encounter: One time, a French gentleman in his fifties came to the Bank to exchange money, he suggested that I showed him around a little bit, his English being poor. No problem, I said. So, after finishing work, I met him in front of the Bank and took him around Tsim Sha Tsui, visiting a number of shops. He invited me to dinner which I graciously accepted. Afterwards he suggested that he had a small gift to offer to me in appreciation of my assistance, we went to his hotel room. He dug into his luggage for a small souvenir gift, sat on the edge of the bed, signalled me to sit next to him, and offered me the gift. As I was looking at the item, he caressed my right thigh. My immediate reaction was to move away, and I thought “what a weird man he is”. I was so innocent and did not know his intention. It was only a long time after that I learned about “Homosexuality” and hence the explanation for this strange behaviour.

Japanese Encounter: It was an amazing feat for Japan to emerge as the most advanced economy in Asia, just two decades after its surrender in 1945. In 1960’s, Japanese tourists came to visit Hong Kong in large number, most of the time in group tours, led by a guide brandishing a small flag on a long stick. The local people admired and have great respect for the Japanese tourists for their good, quiet, discreet, disciplined behavior. Somehow, I made acquaintance with a Japanese gentleman in his late thirties, he was posted to Hong Kong and lived in a Company paid apartment on Austin Road. He was learning French and at his request, I spent several months helping him practice his French. It was free lesson, but this gentleman unselfishly reciprocated with a gift. It is in me to help anybody who seeks my assistance, to the best of my ability, without expecting any reward. It is my philosophy that if everyone can help one other person, this world would be a better place to live.

If you visit any Chinatown around the world, from London to Sydney, from San Francisco to New York, it is likely that you will find “Moon Cake” at the Chinese pastry shops.

What is “Moon Cake”. Really, it is just a round wheat flour pastry, shape of the moon, with a rich thick filling of sweet red bean or lotus seed paste. Some moon cakes may also contain one up to four yolks of salted duck eggs which elevate the quality of this pastry. Round shape symbolizes completeness and reunion.

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Traditionally, moon cakes are eaten during The Mid-Autumn Festival, one of four most important Chinese festivals. It is a time when families and acquaintances exchange moon cakes as a gesture of friendship, and a time to get together to admire the moon. In Hong Kong, young lovers try to find high spots, such as the roof of a building or the top of a hill or mountain, to be physically a bit closer to the moon, to romantically watch the moon and to pray for their wishes to come true.

There are several legends surrounding moon cakes.

One had it that the Han Chinese revolutionaries circulated a secret message stuffed inside moon cakes, to orchestrate the overthrow of the ruling Mongols on Mid-Autumn Day. Kublai Khan, a grandson of Genghis Khan, ruled China under the Yuan Dynasty from 1279 to 1368.

Another legend “Chang’e flying to the moon”. Long time ago there were ten Suns which excessive heat dried up plants and killed people. Hou Yi, an accomplished archer, shot nine Suns down, thus saving the world. The Queen Mother of the time awarded Hou Yi a bottle of elixir, fit for one person only, which when taken would make the person immortal and leave the world. Hou Yi preferred to stay with his lovely wife, rather than becoming immortal. One day when Hou Yi was out hunting, Pang Meng, one of his disciples tried to snatch the elixir from Chang’e. Chang’e did not want Pang Meng to have the elixir, and instead drunk it herself. She became immortal and decided to fly to the moon where she could be close enough to earth to watch over her husband.

Another legend, The Jade Rabbit, goes like this. Once upon a time, there were three animals living in a forest, a fox, a monkey and a rabbit. Three Immortals, disguising as beggars, approached the three animals, and asked for food. The fox and the monkey offered them food. The rabbit who was less resourceful had nothing to offer. She said: “Sorry, I don’t have any food to offer but I can offer myself”. Then she jumped into the fire. The three Immortals were deeply touched by the Rabbit’s virtue and decided to make her an immortal and sending her to live in the Moon Palace.

The Mid-Autumn Festival, also called the Moon Festival or the Mooncake Festival, is celebrated on the 15^th of the 8^th Month of the Lunar Calendar, when the moon is at its fullest and brightest. In the Gregorian calendar it is in September or early October. On this day people celebrated and felt grateful for a good harvest, similarly to the Western Thanksgiving Day. Today Mid-Autumn Festival is celebrated as a reunion for family. It is not uncommon for children living overseas to fly back home to unite with their parents to enjoy a family meal followed by moon cake.

Children are particularly excited about The Mid-Autumn Festival, not only a time to enjoy the moon cake, but also a time to go to the park, amidst all other children, each carrying and showcasing his or her own brightly lit colourful paper lantern, flower or animal shaped, rabbit being a favourite.

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In Hong Kong there is the popular “Tai Hang Fire Dragon” dance. Here is the origin.

Around 100 years ago, the people of Tai Hang were afflicted by a series of bad luck, first the typhoon disaster, then the plague and the livestock eating pythons. A soothsayer decreed that the only way to stop this calamity was to stage a fire dance for three days and nights during the upcoming “Autumn Festival”. The villagers made a huge dragon from straw and covered it with lit incense joss sticks. For three days and nights the dragon danced, accompanied by the sounds of cymbals and drums and firecrackers. At the end of three days the plague had disappeared. This tradition continues till this day, displaying an impressive 67 metres long straw dragon, attracting thousands of locals as well as tourists.

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Tai Hang was a small village within the district of Causeway Bay on Hong Kong Island. This place is dear to my heart because my wife grew up there, and as a family we spent some memorable moments in Tai Hang.