Monthly Archives: June 2015

Port of Call Singapore

A day before February 4, 1966 standing from the ship’s deck we suddenly saw under a bright blue sky some birds flying over the water and we had a glimpse of land in the far horizon. We three comrades were elated, we exchanged glances and smiles, we were jumping with joy. Our feeling at that instance was probably not dissimilar to what the sailors felt in the olden days when perching at the top of their ship’s main mast after months at sea they saw land and shouted with all their might “Land Land”.

We were approaching Indonesia and soon would pass through the isthmus separating the Indonesian main islands of Sumatra and Java. Djakarta was not too far away so were the small Coco Island and Christmas Island. The Indonesian shores were still quite a distance from our eyes to be able for us to see and cherish the spectacular and picturesque view of sandy white beaches lined with coconut and palm trees which we know of today. Nevertheless the words “Sumatra” and “Java” were in themselves too exotic to stop our hearts from pounding. As we entered the South China Sea the night had caught up with us.

Soon our ship would be entering the South China Sea through the isthmus of Sumatra

Soon our ship would be entering the South China Sea through the isthmus of Sumatra, an opening between the main islands of Sumatra and Java

If our ship had passed closer to the shores of Sumatra, this is what we would have seen and remembered for a long time

If our ship had passed closer to the shores of Sumatra, this is what we would have seen and remembered for a long time

We woke up early next morning, I could not remember the exact time but it was still pitch dark and the air was filled with mist and dew. We could barely see a couple of hundred feet ahead but could hear the occasional long and eerie sound of the ship’s horn. The air was hot and humid and we waited patiently on deck to see something that the crew promised would be exciting and unforgettable. Every time I watched a rerun of “Titanic” my imagination would bring me back to this mysterious and misty morning on the M V”Ruys”.

The ship was soon to enter the Port of Singapore. Speed was reduced considerably lest it hit other vessels in the harbour. Suddenly and unexpectedly as if oozing out from the mist appeared a dozen of small motor boats swiftly approaching the port side of our ship. It reminded me of the Greek mythology Helen of Troy, the face that launched a thousand ships which suddenly appeared on the shore of Troy.

I guess when our ship entered the Port of Singapore this was what it looked like. foggy misty eerie

I guess when our ship entered the Port of Singapore this was what it looked like. foggy misty eerie

At that moment our ship’s crew ready and well prepared threw several long heavy ropes from over the deck to the motor boats below. We hardly had time to blink than the seamen below were already climbing up the ropes and over on to deck. For the next five or ten minutes there was a brisk exchange of goods and money, obviously smuggled goods. What kind of goods I did not know, my best guess would be cigarettes, alcohol, camera. Everything was perfectly timed and synchronized, no panic, no mistake, no misunderstanding. I thought that they should have done it a hundred times that they could do it with their eyes closed. It was mind-boggling how perfectly things were coordinated and executed by a team of ordinary men who had no cell phones, no telex, no email, one group cut off sixty days at sea, the other group incommunicado on land.

Whether this activity was repeated at each and every port I was not sure, whether the Ship’s Officers were aware of it but kept one eye closed I was not sure, whether the Officers had a cut I was not sure. But this was a small way the low paid crew made an extra buck on their long hard journey. Just as quickly the seamen had come on board they cleared the deck just as fast. Timing was critical because the deal needed to be completed before the ship entered the Port proper, before day break and before the Harbour Police had time to react.

This was how Singapore looked like when my ship M V "Ruys" entered port in 1966

This was how Singapore looked like when my ship M V “Ruys” entered port in 1966

When I think about it now I am happy that I traveled Second Class because both First Class and Third Class passengers did not have this opportunity to witness something so exciting, so extraordinary, a scene that could fit in any James Bond movie, a once in a life-time experience never to be forgotten.

Days At Sea

Why PassingCloud as the name for my blog? MYSTORY would have been more suitable but this domain name was taken and I had to look for an alternative. After a night of thinking I came up with PassingCloud because I believe that stories are like clouds, they form and come into being, they hang up there for a little while mostly without anyone bothering to have a peep and then they move away. Stories like clouds are unique, it is impossible to have two identical stories just like it is impossible to have two identical clouds. With time all my stories will be forgotten and disappear like passing clouds, so will be everybody else’s stories.

Cap Malheureux 1
“Coin de Mire” strange creature like a lizard with a huge head

At around 6 o’clock in the afternoon January 25, 1966 M V “Ruys” lifted anchor and started the voyage to take me to Hong Kong. I could not remember too well what happened as the liner cruised out of Port Louis harbour, but I believe there must have been some commotion and activities as crew and passengers gathered on deck for the departure. What I remember well is when we were passing near the north of the island near Cap Malheureux, a small romantic fishing village on the northern tip of the island. I remember seeing “Coin de Mire” a small elongated island off the northern coast of Mauritius having the shape of a strange creature, like a huge lizard with a huge head. This creature was something we kids always saw when we spent numerous Sunday afternoon on the beach at Cap Malheureux, but we never were able to come close to it as the water between the beach and the island was very turbulent and dangerous. Cap Malheureux translates into English as Unhappy Cape got its name when years ago ships around this area hit the rocks and broke during stormy weather.

cap malheureux 2
Cap Malheureux beach where I spent many Sunday afternoon with my brothers and sisters as we were growing up.

Another half hour or so Mauritius Island began to shrink in front of me, getting smaller and smaller into the horizon and this was the last time I saw of my island for the next 48 years. A group of birds were seen flying here and there within sight of the liner but soon they all disappeared as the ship speeded away from the island. And the sky was now dark.

I still remember the day when my father took me to the Shipping Company, The Royal Interocean Lines, to book my passage. I think the fare was 250 rupees, slightly over my monthly pay cheque and it was a one way ticket. We were not given much information about the ship nor did we ask except that it was a huge ship by any standard then. My ticket was for Second Class which provided us with a small cabin with bunk beds accommodating four. There was a window, so it was not dark, no air conditioning though and this did not bother us kids accustomed to the year round hot and humid air of Port Louis. To my pleasant surprise there were two other young Mauritian men about my age sharing the cabin, just like me going to Hong Kong to try their luck. Cyril and Clovis were their names and their company added much comfort to me as we young innocent Islanders would later navigate the huge unfamiliar city of Hong Kong. Be it known that I did not speak Cantonese, I do now, and English was not widely spoken in the streets of Hong Kong.

Our first port of call would be Singapore on February 4, after 10 days at sea. The 10 days were the fondest memories of my life. Everyday we completely relaxed on deck under the warm sun and letting time slowly pass by, nothing to do and nothing to see except the vast ocean around us. We could only smell the salty warm air from the ocean and the scent of ship bunker fuel, and listen to the repetitive churning of the ship engines and the sound of the breaking waves as they cut through the bow of the ship. We did not see any island or any bird or any passing ship for straight 10 days but occasionally we saw some wild fish jumping from the water in the far distance. We were in a world of our own. The most memorable part of this period of time was the daily afternoon tea at 3.00 pm, when we were served English tea and delicious tarts. This afternoon tea tradition is very British to this day.

Indian Ocean
This was all there was to see for straight 10 days on board M V “Ruys” from Mauritius to Singapore.

I had no clue that M V “Ruys” had other passengers besides the small group of us on the Second Class. The Second Class area was at the aft of the ship completely cut off from the First Class which I did not know existed until I recently made some research. After a couple of days at sea we saw some new faces on deck, they were passengers from the Third Class which was located below deck with no windows. They were allowed on open deck for short period of time to feel the sun and breathe the fresh air. Most of them were Japanese who boarded the ship in Brazil for a 50-day plus voyage to Yokohama Japan to visit their parents and friends. It must have been a very hard trip back home but the thought of reuniting with their beloved ones even for a little while was I believed enough incentive for them to endure the journey. I thought it should have been even harder for them to leave their country in the first place to such a remote and foreign place in South America in search of a better life for themselves and their children. In my heart I simply wished them all the best.

MV RUYS
M V “Ruys” was built in 1938 and scrapped in 1968, two years after it took me to Hong Kong. It carried cargo and had accommodation for 131 first class passengers, 84 second class and 179 third class. Its route commenced from Yokohama – Hong Kong – Singapore – Mauritius – Durban – Cap Town. Then across the South Atlantic to Rio de Janeiro – Santos – Monte Video – Buenos Aires (2 months trip). The ship then did a reverse back to Yokohama.